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Jewelry Terms & Details

The Natural Sapphire Company specializes in fine sapphire jewelry. We are a direct mine-to-market production house. We specialize in the creation of fine, one of a kind, handmade jewelry items.

Daily we create unique, custom pieces in our in-house art depart. We can achieve any simple or highly technical designs that our customers desire. Our pieces are handmade. Detail and quality are always our first priority.

Here are some basic details on jewelry terms, procedures and explanations. Please contact us if you have
further questions.

Drawings and Renderings
Wax Models
Metal Types
Mounting
Setting
Ring Size
Bracelets and Necklaces

The problem is that color interpretation is always unique from one person to the next, so it is almost impossible to agree on a standard. Also, there are so many tones and hues of one type of color that identifying them all correctly on a standardized basis would be impossible.

On clarity, colored stones are generally far more saturated with inclusions at a level of 10 x magnifications than with diamonds. There are many different types of inclusions in colored stones as well. If the same clarity grading system were in place for colored stones as it is for diamonds, there would almost never be high-clarity graded colored gemstones.

This does not mean that all colored stones are included; rarely can you see inclusions without the support of magnification. Even in "included" colored stones it is difficult to see clarity issues without close inspection or with the aid of a loupe or microscope.

Cutting grading has similar complexity issues as clarity grading. The basic issue with grading cutting on colored gemstones is that there are so many types of cutting styles. It would be almost impossible to give a complete detail of a cutting style on each and every colored stone.

Demand for laboratory grading within sapphires and other colored stones has not reached a level where such a standardized system has been needed as of yet. If demand continues to rise for a standardized grading system it is possible that some perimeters will be established in a uniform code. In most cases an ideal grading should be done by a third party that has excellent experience within the field as well as no interest in the sale of the item being graded. But the bottom line is that there is currently no standardized grading system. If someone tells you otherwise they are trying to sell you a service that is only reliable with that one person or company and not the general market.

Drawings and Renderings

Custom, made to order jewelry
takes vision, skill and
experience. A design is first
discussed verbally, with the aid
of existing pictures, or from an
already completed piece of
jewelry. Rough sketches are
then made to complete the
model design. Finally, fine
drawings and pastels are used
to create the finished design
through the high skill of our in
house artists. From these
images a completed jewelry
creation is handmade into
a finished piece.

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Wax Models

A wax model is created in many cases that will be used in the gold/platinum casting process. The wax model is hand carved to the exact specifications of the stones being used. Fine wax models take considerable time and expertise. The wax model quality and design is very important as the finished piece will be an exact replica of the wax design.

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Metal Types

14K Gold

This is the standard jewelry type metal. We usually will not use 14K metal unless requested by a customer. Normally we use a higher purity of gold for our jewelry.
18K Gold

This is a higher purity of gold. We normally use this standard over traditional 14K. We cast our mountings in both white and yellow 18K gold,depending on the jewelry item and the customer’s request.
       
       
White Gold

White gold is a type of gold that has alloys mixed in so that the metal is white. White gold is as valuable and expensive as traditional yellow gold, in 14 or 18K. White gold is a popular alternative to platinum, as it is much less expensive yet equally as precious as yellow gold.
Platinum

This is the hardest metal available. It is the most expensive, usually 3 times the price of regular 14K gold. It is normally used for the most expensive and highest quality workmanship. We recommend this metal for more expensive items because platinum will surely last a lifetime of use, as it is an exceptionally durable metal.
       
       
Rose Gold

Rose Gold is sometimes referred to as “pink gold”. Rose gold is used in special designs where a pinkish metal color best suits the sapphires that are being incorporated into the jewelry design. The “rose” color comes from the addition of certain alloys in the gold casting process. Rose gold is very fashionable and used in fine jewelry.
Green Gold

Green Gold is another unique coloring of gold. Sometimes it is referred to as “mellow yellow” as it has a unique gold coloring. Green gold is often seen with a “satin” (sandblasted) finish, this further accentuates the “green gold” coloration.

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Mounting

A mounting or “semi - mount” is a pre-made casting awaiting the stones to be selected for the final setting where there are normally preset side stones (usually pave diamonds or side stones).

These are usually made for rings in order for quick completion after the sapphire has been selected to set in the center opening of the ring.

Setting

There are many different methods of setting stones in jewelry. Here are the most common and widely used methods.



Prong

Double Prong
   
Prong setting is the most traditional and classic type of setting that is seen in jewelry. It is quite simple in method and design, yet a good setter holds a unique role in the finishing touches of jewelry. Setting a stone at just the right height, completely straight, centered and secure is not an easy task. The risk of chipping a stone is always an ever present danger for a setter. A good setter is a rare craftsman.
A double prong setting is usually reserved for very large stones that require extra security and support. A double prong setting is sometimes requested as a special order. It is used even for smaller stones on occasion, as it lends to a unique look.
   

Claw Prong

Bezel
   
A Claw Prong is a fancy and unique way of finishing off prongs in the setting of a stone. This is a refined look and quite unique. A Double Claw Setting is extra special for large set stones.
A bezel setting is a stone that is set without prongs, rather metal is surrounding the entire perimeter of the stone. This is a very safe and secure way of protecting a stone in jewelry. It also is a very unique look as the metal completely showcases the stone that is being set.
   

Pave

Micro Pave
   
Pave’ is a specialty setting type where small round stones (usually diamonds) are set very close together. There are many methods in creating this type of setting. This is normally done by hand with a special tool where a bead is raised and created in between pre-drilled holes. These very small beads are then used to hold the stones together in a very close and uniform way. The finished look is very clean and elegant looking.
Micro Pave’ is very similar to Pave’ except extremely small stones are used, in some cases less than 1 millimeter. This work is usually done with the aid of a microscope and sometimes with a laser tool for ultra fine finishing detail. This type of setting work is very expensive and highly labor intensive. It is the work of a specialist.

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Ring Size

An important specification of any jewelry is the correct measurement for the wearer. If you are unsure of your ring size, you can print out this ring sizer cut-out and take your own measurement. Yes, it is very accurate if you use it correctly.

Of course if you are not comfortable with taking your own size you can go to any local jewelry store and ask them to please measure your finger.

Click here to print out our ring sizing PDF

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Bracelets and Necklaces

Standard lengths for necklace are 18 inches. Bracelets are 7 inches. Special lengths can be accommodated for special orders.

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